5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Julian Duquemin, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Eliot Thomas-Wright
Julian made the effort to come out today, and we were all looking forward to an extended jaunt to Venford and Dartmeet. The first drops of rain began as we left the start, and by the time we had reached Buckfast we were forced to take shelter under an unsubstantial bush. The rain just got heavier as we waited, and soon we were as wet under the bush as we would have been out on the road. A unanimous decision was taken to head for home for a social, with the possibility of heading out again if the weather improved. It didn't, so we enjoyed a few choice videos.
Friday 9 August 2002
19:00 - 21:15
Evening ride: Staverton
Damp
3 Participants:
Julian Duquemin, Michael Jones, Gavin Pearson
With inclement weather all about we chose an easy route along Colston Road to Staverton riverside, pushing the bikes along the final section to ensure the natives were not upset. There was time for a few minutes of Frisbee throwing in Staverton playing fields on the homeward journey past Caddaford.
Sunday 11 August 2002
10:00 - 17:20
Day ride: Plym Valley Cycleway
Damp start, dry later
52 miles
6 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Julian Duquemin, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Drizzle at the start turned into spells of heavier rain that threatened to incite a mutiny by the time we reached Ivybridge. The forecast had promised a dryer afternoon, however, so we followed the cycle path to Plympton and then took to the newly-tarmacked Plym Valley cycleway as far as the wooded glade that has been our lunch spot on this ride since anyone can remember. Spells of light rain endured for a mile or two longer, but once we emerged at the other end of the tunnel, new rays of sunshine proved the forecast correct.
Burrator Reservoir was fairly busy, but the ice cream saleswoman had to manage without our business today. Julian briefly considered taking the rough moorland track to Princetown but eventually agreed with the rest of us that it would probably be wet and hard going as a result of the earlier rain. Instead we took Tao's recommendation of a shortcut along the old railway line down to the main road, which actually proved quite interesting.
On arrival at Princetown we were disappointed to see that the extravagant Lords Tearooms had now shut down, leaving only the original Foxtor cafe that had earned a somewhat lacklustre reputation over the years. A change of ownership at the Foxtor, however, meant no budgies or table service but a greatly improved menu - the hot fruit scones and delicious hot chocolate made the whole stop highly memorable. Suitably refreshed we proceeded with good speed through Hexworthy to Holne and Buckfastleigh, where we all felt need of hot showers, good food and a long night's sleep.
Friday 16 August 2002
19:00 - 21:15
Evening ride: Staverton
Sunny and warm
7 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Julian Duquemin, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Phillip Oakley, Gavin Pearson
There was plenty of talk of Switzerland on this final evening ride before the big tour. We climbed Green Lane and detoured back through Staverton for some Frisbee-throwing fun in the park.
Sunday 18 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 1 Home to London
Night
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Our epic adventure to Switzerland proved to be one of our best tours ever. We were blessed with excellent weather almost every day with only a couple of showers in the whole two weeks. Clocking up more than 615 miles in 11 days of cycling we managed to view all regions of this magnificent country from the fabulous network of cycle paths that make Britain's treatment of cyclists appear stone-aged. Huge lakes, clean rivers, gentle gradients, picturesque houses, good food and a friendly population helped make this a very memorable tour.
Day 1 started late on Sunday night as the five participants met at Newton Abbot Station at 11.45pm. Our bikes had been dismantled and packed into special £40 bike bags that Eurostar had insisted we buy in order to take our bikes with us to France. The overnight sleeper train arrived on time and it wasn't long before we were enjoying a comfortable night in sleeper bunks, soothed by the gentle sway of the train gliding effortlessly over the track.
23:59 The group assembles at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Gavin talks to Tao at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Tao with Neil at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
00:01 Tao at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
00:01 Luke explains how he couldn't find his expensive towel when he was packing
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
00:02 Oliver with his parents at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
00:03 Oliver and Gavin at Newton Abbot station
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Final group photos, with some bikes already in the obligatory Bike Bags
(Bridget Lindley, Unknown Camera, 135)
Final group photos, with some bikes already in the obligatory Bike Bags
(Bridget Lindley, Unknown Camera, 135)
Video of today's activities - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Original 2002 edit, revamped in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Monday 19 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 2 London to Mariastein-Rotberg YH
Hot & sunny
13 miles (▲ 310m ▼ 55m)
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Complimentary orange juice and biscuits at 5.20am did little to prepare us for what proved to be a tough journey across London from Paddington to Waterloo. Our bike bags were not especially heavy, but the shoulder and hand straps became very painful after a few minutes of walking. And of course we had panniers and bar bags to carry as well. Oliver's mother had prepared some towel handles for his bag, but the rest of us had to improvise with gloves and items of clothing. It was with great relief that we stowed the bags on the Eurostar train before taking our seats on the 7.23 departure.
The train to Paris was comfortable and fast, giving us plenty of opportunity to catch up on some sleep. At Paris Gare du Nord, where we arrived at 11:23, we reassembled the bikes while Michael explored the possibility of leaving the bags at the station for two weeks. The quoted charge was around £70 per bag, so we thanked them very much and strapped the folded bags onto the panniers! We whiled away a few pleasant hours on the banks of the Seine before catching our final train from Gare de l'Est to Basel in Switzerland, which left at 14:44.
Our reserved seats on the crowded SNCF train were already occupied by other passengers who seemed unwilling to give them up. The guard seemed keen to help out, so he opened up a special air-conditioned compartment adjacent to our bikes and gave us exclusive occupancy rights! Soaring, thundery temperatures left us all suffering a little, but we were probably the most comfortable passengers on the train.
At 7.51pm we finally arrived in Switzerland. Our first night was to be at Mariastein-Rotberg youth hostel, about 10 miles out of the town and close to the village of Flüh. We were immediately struck by the cleanliness and peace of the town - and were entertained by the funny German names that resembled English words. The final climb in the dark was a little painful after such a long day, but eventually we found our way to the hostel and dragged our luggage up the hundreds of steps to the chateau entrance.
It was past 9pm but the wardens kindly agreed to cook us a very welcome pasta meal for £4. We arranged to leave our bike bags in a back room of the hostel ready for collection at the end of the tour - this was the only cheap solution we could find to our problem. Another Turkish hosteller proved a little too friendly by coming into our dormitory and talking endlessly, but eventually we settled down for a very comfortable first night in Switzerland.
05:57 Oliver, on the Sleeper train at Paddington station, gets an early knock from Michael in the sleeper compartment he shared with Luke
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
05:57 The rather cramped bunks in Oliver's sleeping compartment on the Sleeper train at Paddington
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
05:58 Tao somehow managed to get a single-berth sleeping compartment on the Sleeper train from Newton Abbot
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
08:36 Michael on the Eurostar from Waterloo to Paris
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:42 Lunch by the Seine in Paris
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:49 Luke and Gavin finish their lunch on the banks of the River Seine in Paris, near with Pont des Arts in the distance
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:49 A Batobus passes us on the River Seine in Paris
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:50 Gavin and Luke finish their lunch by the River Seine in Paris, near Pont des Arts
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:50 Oliver and Tao chat with Gavin and Luke on the banks of the River Seine in Paris, near Pont des Arts
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:37 Tao is rather tired on our long train journey from Paris to Basel
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
Video of today's activities - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Original 2002 video edit, improved in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Approximate map of our cycling excursion in Paris at lunchtime
Approximate map of our evening cycle ride from Basel station to Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
Tuesday 20 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 3 Mariastein-Rotberg to Solothurn YH
Hot with thundery showers
49 miles (▲ 1155m ▼ 1275m)
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
A leisurely, late breakfast on the inside balcony of Mariastein hostel has to be one of the best ways to start a day: cereals, yoghurt, Swiss bread, jams, hot chocolate, coffee and orange juice, all served on simple wooden tables overlooking fabulous panoramic views. We were in no hurry to leave, but we knew that further delays would only add to what would be a lengthy ride.
Switzerland has had the good sense to set up a set of nine national cycling routes that cross the country in all directions. All the routes are clearly signposted on the ground, leading cyclists along gentle gradients and quiet cycle paths whenever possible. We had a choice of routes today: backtrack to Basel along route 7, follow route 3 over the mountains (779m) to Aarau and then take the level route 5 to Solothurn, or take a shorter, more direct and more scenic mountain route that was only a local cycle route and climbed to 943m. The latter sounded more attractive even though we had no clear maps for the central part of the route, so we set off with eager anticipation.
We arrived at the village of Laufen after just 10 miles of climb and descent, so we bought lunch at the local shopping centre and enjoyed it by the roadside. The big climb began shortly afterwards, taking us along numerous hairpin climbs through typical Swiss mountain scenery. After catching the tail-end of the thunderstorm we eventually reached the top, only to find that our route was taking us down a very, very long descent to a village that we could see a long way below. We double checked our route as well as we could, but our worst fears proved correct: there would be another long climb to follow.
Our late start was now coming back to haunt us, but we struggled on and finally reached the 943m pass with nothing but downhill ahead of us. We maintained excellent speed all the way to the youth hostel, finishing with a lengthy cycle path that followed the river Aare for miles. We were certainly beginning to like the Swiss cycle routes!
When we reached the centre of Solothurn village we discovered that Swiss youth hostel signs are neither plentiful nor striking. We found a sign pointing along a street, but after a few minutes we discovered another pointing back the way we had come. Retracing our steps we discovered that we had ridden right past the imposing hostel, which looked more like a library than a place to stay the night. It had revolving glass doors, a glass elevator, glass stairs and interesting dormitories with three adjacent mattresses on a very high bunk area, all overlooking the busy river. The self-catering kitchen was more of a disappointment, enclosed entirely in a small wall cupboard and consisting of a sink, hob and a small cupboard full of pans, plates and cutlery. We had to take it in turns to cook our food, so it was late when we finally settled down for a night that was punctuated by the sound of numerous Swiss trains passing on the other side of the river.
09:34 Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel, from just outside the entrance
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
09:35 Looking up to the breakfast area from the inside courtyard at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:16 Oliver makes his breakfast tea at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:17 The most perfect breakfast setting at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:17 Tao particularly enjoys the Swiss jams for his late breakfast at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:18 Luke preferred to make his own breakfast this morning - and couldn't even get us to give him some of our orange juice!
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:40 Packing panniers after breakfast in our unusual tower dorm at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:41 Another unused tower dorm at Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel - perhaps a little too cosy for restless sleepers?
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:41 Wonderful views of the surrounding countryside from the tower of Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:50 Preparing to leave Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel on a cloudy but surprisingly warm morning
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:51 Michael videos Luke outside Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
11:58 Looking back to Mariastein-Rotberg Youth Hostel from Mariansteinstrasse, 0.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:58 Tao provides commentary for the video about our first hostel from Mariansteinstrasse, 0.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:00 The group at Mariansteinstrasse, ready to start our long ride a lot later than we had planned
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:00 Michael finishing his video recording at Mariansteinstrasse, 0.8 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:26 The most delicious fruit pastries on sale from the counter outside Migros supermarket in Laufen, 7.2 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:26 Gavin buys some pastries from the patisserie outside Migros supermarket, Laufen
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:27 A good range of yoghurts on sale in Migros supermarket, Laufen
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:27 Shopping for lunch and supper in the Migros supermarket, Laufen
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
14:28 Olly took this photo of Michael and Luke at Röschenzstrasse 38, Laufen, probably just after lunch
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
14:57 After a very late lunch, the first climb begins as we approach Bärschwil, 10.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
14:57 Starting the first big climb on the approach Bärschwil, 10.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:27 Michael, Gavin and Luke climbing to the first hairpin on Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:27 Unique mountain views from Passwangstrasse, Beinwil, 20.4 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:39 View back from the second hairpin at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:38 Tao comments on the impressive scenery at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:38 The group at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:38 The group at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:39 The group at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:39 Incredible scenery at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil, but thundery clouds are approaching
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:39 Incredible scenery at Passwangstrasse, Beinwil, but thundery clouds are approaching
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:45 A little further up the mountain we find yet another farm with a crane, the eighth crane we have seen on the tour so far, 21.1 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
18:03 Passwang, 946m above sea level and the top of our mountain climb, 22.0 miles into the ride. It's all downhill from here!
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:08 Following Cycle Route 5 along the Bipperkanal near Niederbipp, 33.5 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:55 A brief pause at the bridge over the side stream at Siggern, Flumenthal, 39.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:01 The impressive Flumenthal Dam on the River Aare, 41.1 miles into the ride and eight miles from Solothurn hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Official video of today's ride - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV80E)
Original 2002 video edit, revamped in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Map of main part of today's ride, showing most video points
Map showing final part of today's ride, with all video points marked
Wednesday 21 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 4 Solothurn to Cudrefin hotel
Hot and sunny
45 miles (▲ 170m ▼ 165m)
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Wednesday morning began with the busy sound of many people cycling or walking past the hostel, on their way to school and work. There was so much to see from our second floor window that we sat there for some time just taking it all in: the young man towing his dog in a cycle trailer; the numerous boats pacing up and down the river. Even the ducks were entertaining.
On leaving the hostel we located a cycle shop where Michael could buy a replacement tyre, then we set off to follow Route 5 down river. The path took us through fields of sunflowers and sweetcorn, and then alongside the river Aare. Suddenly, near Altreu, we were stopped in our tracks by the site of a white stork in its huge, untidy nest on the roof of a house. These rare birds thrive in the traditional agriculture of this region, and we saw several more birds and nests during the course of the next half an hour. There are around 100 pairs in Switzerland, reintroduced since 1948.
We stopped briefly to explore the village of Büren with its impressive wooden entrance bridge, destroyed by a fire in 1789 but reconstructed in 1989. Boats using the river must be constructed to be especially low in order to pass under the bridge. We bought some of the superb yoghurt drinks that we had grown to like so much, then proceeded to Biel and the Bieler Lake. At Mörigen we enjoyed lunch by the lakeside, entertained by a family of children playing in the water and, later, by our own Frisbees. Pressing on through Lüscherz we soon found ourselves at Thielle with a difficult decision to make. We were staying at a hotel that night with no possibility of a self-catering kitchen. We were at the head of another long lake. Our hotel was part way down the south side, but the only shops were towards Neuchâtel, part way down the north side. We decided to make the detour, and found a huge Migros shopping centre in Epagnier which provided us with good food and comfortable seats for its consumption. This was now definitely French-speaking Switzerland. An enormous mound of burning straw in a field turned out to be a demonstration by the local fire service.
Retracing our steps we proceeded quickly past the large farm at Witzwil, noted for its special corridors linking areas of its land that allow rabbits and other animals to move freely, and soon reached La Sauge, near Cudrefin, where our hotel was just off the road. The south side of the vast Lake of Neuchâtel is Switzerland's last swampy region, interrupted only by the few small towns situated on the banks. The area is a nature reserve for wild birds, and the hotel is frequented by birdwatchers from all over the world. We took up the hotel's offer of a free walk down to the lake, but a birdwatcher positioned on the path ahead of us with his tripod-mounted binoculars clearly felt he owned the place as he was very unwilling to move to allow us to pass! The sunset was glorious and we spent some time just enjoying the tranquillity of the area before returning to our room for another night of well-earned rest.
07:49 The unusual bunks at Solothurn hostel have three people sleeping right next to each other!
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
07:51 Great views to the River Aare from our hostel windows
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
07:52 It seems that dogs in Solothurn don't have to walk, judging by this photo taken from our window this morning at Solothurn hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
07:58 There's plenty going on outside our window this morning at Solothurn hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
08:02 There's plenty going on outside our window this morning at Solothurn hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
08:51 The modern metal and glass design of Solothurn Youth Hostel makes it an interesting place to stay
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
09:35 The front entrance to Solothurn Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
09:36 Tao makes final adjustments to his bike at the back of Solothurn Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
09:52 The bustling street of Hauptgasse in Solothurn, looking away from the cathedral
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
09:59 Inside St Ursen Cathedral, Solothurn
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:38 Riding Cycle Route 5 along the River Aare, 2.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:38 Riding Cycle Route 5 along the River Aare, 2.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:13 The first real, live Stork we have ever seen, on the approach to Staad, 9.1 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:21 Storks nesting in the trees at Staad, 9.3 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:45 Parking the bikes at Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:45 The familiar Cycle Route signs we have been following all day - Routes 5 and 8 follow the same route at this particular point
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:47 The River Aare, viewed from the ancient, enclosed, wooden bridge at Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:04 Buying lunch from the Weibel supermarket at Spittlegasse,Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:06 Emerging from the Weibel supermarket at Spittlegasse,Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:06 Emerging from the Weibel supermarket at Spittlegasse,Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:06 Emerging from the Weibel supermarket at Spittlegasse,Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
12:07 Tao checks out the local bike shop in Büren
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:04 We need to identify the location of this photo ... taken by Oliver somewhere between Scheuren and Sutz-Lattrigen
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:32 Local children entertain us over lunch at Sutz-Lattringen as they swim in the Bielersee Lake
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:48 View across the Bielersee Lake from our lunch spot at Sutz-Lattringen, 21.3 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:49 Our lunch spot at Sutz-Lattringen, 21.3 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:57 Frisbee fun at our lunch spot at Sutz-Lattringen
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:59 Michael retrieves the Aerobie from the cycle path at our lunch spot at Sutz-Lattringen
(Oliver, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
14:26 Oliver took a picture of this house under construction, somewhere between lunch and Mörigen Harbour, although I cannot see exactly where it was taken
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
14:37 Mörigen Harbour, a picture of peace and tranquillity 22.9 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
15:02 The Aare-Hagneck Canal empties into the Bielersee Lake after releasing its power in the Hagneck HEP station, 25.8 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
15:02 The Aare-Hagneck Canal empties into the Bielersee Lake after releasing its power in the Hagneck HEP station, 25.8 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
15:14 Another unusual building spotted by Oliver, at Seestrasse, Lüscherz
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:16 Luke enjoys his chicken meal at a welcome restaurant in the Marin Centre, Epagnier, 37.1 miles into the ride. There is a Migros Supermarket here as well
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:40 Swan and signets on the Neuchâtel lake in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve, a short walk from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:41 The Broye Canal leads into Lake Neuchâtel in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:41 Tao at sunset in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:57 Gavin at sunset on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:02 Gavin at sunset on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:02 Gavin at sunset on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:09 Moorhens on Lake Neuchâtel in the Cudrefin Nature Reserve
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Official video of today's ride - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Original 2002 video edit, revamped in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Approximate map showing the morning route up to lunchtime, with all video points marked
Approximate map of today's afternoon ride, showing all video points
Thursday 22 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 5 Cudrefin to Lausanne YH
Very hot and sunny
58 miles (▲ 360m ▼ 415m)
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Today's route took us along specially-created paths through fields of more vegetables than we could count. We had reached the town of Yverdon-les-Bains at the far end of the lake by lunchtime as the riding was very flat and easy, but we were so keen to find a shop that we took a wrong turning that cost us a couple of miles of unnecessary riding. Another Migros supermarket provided food, and a quiet play park offered seats and welcome shade from the mid-day sun for lunch.
Under the main road bridge was the most incredible BMX track we had ever seen. If the signs hadn't pointed out that it was only for the use of club members we would almost certainly have given it a try!
Now, finally, we faced the prospect of a little climbing - a gentle 200m climb over 20 miles. As we reached Golion in sweltering temperatures we got our first glimpse of the world famous Lake Geneva, and soon afterwards we were riding through forest tracks on our way to Lausanne. Pausing at the side of the vast lake we suddenly realised that whilst the Swiss have no coastline, their many lakes offer a superior replacement. There was a sandy beach, children playing in dinghies and swimming, people sailing boats as part of a club - all the fun of the beach was taking place here on the lake. We could easily have tarried longer.
Proceeding to Ouchy we discovered that we had passed the hostel again, but we noted the take-away food bar for possible use later. Lausanne hostel turned out to be very large, very modern and very uninspiring. It was obviously used frequently as a conference centre, and whilst it was comfortable and clean it lacked the character that we have come to expect from youth hostels - and a members' kitchen! We had some difficulty finding rooms with opening windows - we would probably have suffocated if we had stayed in the rooms we were originally offered.
We chose to explore the lake side on foot all the way from Vidy back to Ouchy. Once again we were amazed at the night life - everyone, young and old, was happily enjoying sports of all kinds in a safe and friendly atmosphere. Behaviour was impeccable, and the whole walk was a thoroughly enjoyable experience. We capped it off with some delicious pizzas and pancakes at the takeaway bar, and some interesting pictures of the moon reflecting across the swans on the lake.
(The mileage previously written down for this ride was 64 miles)
09:28 Packing panniers in our room at the La Suage Hotel, Cudrefin
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
The La Suage Hotel, Cudrefin
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:11 Gavin prepares to leave the La Suage Hotel, Cudrefin
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
11:24 A nice house on the outskirts of Autavaux that evidently caught Oliver's eye
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
11:43 Luke enjoys a much-needed drink at Estavayer-le-Lac, 14.1 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:44 Tao and Gavin at Estavayer-le-Lac, 14.1 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:44 Oliver enjoys a much-needed drink at Estavayer-le-Lac, 14.1 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:57 Route 5 has just passed under the railway line at Vers le Lac, Font, 16.2 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
14:27 The BMX track under the main road as left Yverdon-les-Bains, 27.7 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
14:44 Horse and cart training on a track at Ependes, 30.6 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
15:36 The walk-in refreshment room at Ferme La Bernoise, Entreroches 1, right beside Route 5 and 37.6 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
16:10 Widespread agriculture at Rte d'Eclèpens, Lussery-Villars
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
16:10 Widespread agriculture at Rte d'Eclèpens, Lussery-Villars
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
16:19 An enormous field of sunflowers on the approach to Penthalaz, 43.6 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
16:29 Gavin makes use of a very welcome water fountain at a farm near Penthalaz, 44.4 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Luke at the very welcome water fountain at a farm near Penthalaz, 44.4 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:17 Roads in need of repair in the La Venoge Valley, 49.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:17 Roads in need of repair in the La Venoge Valley, 49.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:55 Our first view of Lake Geneva, from La Chamberonne, Lausanne, 55.6 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:58 The ultimate location for leisure pursuits, at La Chamberonne, Lausanne
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:57 Soaking up the fabulous atmosphere by Lake Geneva at La Chamberonne, Lausanne
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:57 A child has fun in the safe waters of Lake Geneva at La Chamberonne, Lausanne
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
18:16 Fontaine de Cuivre, Vidy, on our way back to the hostel after overshooting
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
20:27 Tao describes Lausanne Prison - I mean Lausanne Youth Hostel - on behalf of the group
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:27 Oliver, Luke and Gavin add to Tao's description of Lausanne Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:30 IOC Headquarters at Vidy, Lausanne, as seen on our evening walk
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:36 Michael initially called this heron a Crane, after seeing so many cranes on the tour so far. Seen from Promenade de Vidy on our evening walk
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:39 Bowl de Vidy, near the lake shore, 0.6 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
20:48 Port de Vidy, 1.0 mile from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
21:22 Tao and Gavin try their kababs at the Kebab Ouchy takeaway, Ouchy, 2 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
22:34 Night shot on the jetty at Promenade de Vidy on our way back to the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Official video of today's ride - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Original 2002 video edit, revamped in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Approximate map of the main part of today's ride, showing all video points
Approximate map of final part of today's ride, showing all video points
Approximate map of our outward evening walk, showing all video points - we returned along the same route
Friday 23 August 2002
Tour: Switzerland
Day 6 Lausanne to Château d'Oex YH
Very hot and sunny
60 miles (▲ 1060m ▼ 515m)
5 Participants:
Tao Burgess, Luke Fursdon, Michael Jones, Oliver Lindley, Gavin Pearson
Lausanne is home of the Olympic Games, so Olympic statues, flags and buildings were dotted everywhere in this attractive town. Along the lake front were fountains, flower beds, seats, sculptures and many happy people just enjoying the surroundings. It was as we left Lausanne, however, on Route 1 that we discovered the most stunning sight of the tour so far: grape vines, all loaded with delicious grapes, lining the hill from the side of the lake right up to the horizon. Presumably the south-facing slopes offer ideal growing conditions, but the sheer number of vines was staggering. We rode for miles and miles towards Vevey, but the vines just kept going on and on, all neatly terraced and arranged in tidy rows. We felt as though there must have been enough grapes produced in this one area to supply the whole of Europe! The owner's name was printed in huge letters on the rocks above the vines, as if staking out his territory. Quite how they manage to pick them all if they happen to ripen on the same day we couldn't quite fathom - perhaps they pay the whole town to give up a day for grape picking?
It was at Vevey that we had to switch to Route 9, heading up into the mountains. Vevey is another lakeside town like Lausanne with delightful tree-lined walks and statues. We soon found Route 9 and proceeded to follow the signs, but after ten minutes we noticed that we were heading further along the lake, towards Montreaux. Clearly Route 9 started at Montreaux, not Vevey, so we must have missed a sign pointing in the other direction. Retracing our steps we soon found the offending sign, almost completely hidden from view by the leaves of the tree in which it was mounted.
Even though we had planned to move quickly it was still nearly lunchtime when we started the long climb into the mountains. Once again the sun made the going tough, but we pressed on through more rural scenery and settled down for lunch near the road at Châtel St Denis. There was a seat but no shade, so we couldn't stay there too long. Around the next few corners we came across a marshal for a cycle race who spoke excellent English. She couldn't believe her ears when we told her we were headed for Château d'Oex, and advised us to stop chatting and get cycling! Groups of cyclists were passing us on the other side for several miles afterwards, all keen to out-cycle the other teams - we thought they must be training for the Tour de France!
Bulle was our next stop, offering another supermarket for yoghurt drinks and evening meals. Michael also availed himself of the opportunity to purchase a French / English dictionary, to help him with the translation of our French guide book. We still had a good way to go, so we quickly returned to the saddles and set about following Route 9 past another lake and through Gruyeres (famous for its cheese) to the quiet back roads again.
During the tour we passed through many small villages, and nearly all of them boasted a public water trough fed by fresh spring water emanating from an overhanging pipe. Today the trough at Le Bu, adjacent to an unusual polygonal chapel, proved just what the doctor ordered, its cool waters making an excellent cooling agent and the pipe offering top quality refills for our water bottles. The heat really was tiring.
The final sprint of the day took us through a low pass into an adjacent mountain valley, and then onwards and upwards to the small town of Château d'Oex. The hostel was easy to find, but the warden less so: she seemed to be a part-time warden who looked after the hostel as a chore, and it took several rings of the bell before she came down from her private room. Her desire to be left undisturbed for the evening meant that she was more than willing to let us use her main kitchen for our evening meals, so we eagerly set about learning how to use catering-style gas cookers and can openers. She even said we could help ourselves to milk and pay in the morning! Several flies were zapped by the "SuperZap 5" fly extermination machine while we were eating our meal in the dining room.
Once again it was so late by the time we had washed up that there was just about time to get ready for bed before we collapsed from tiredness.
(The previous mileage recorded for this ride was 65 miles)
08:17 Inside Lausanne Youth Hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
08:23 Michael tries to enjoy breakfast in peace at Lausanne Youth Hostel
(Oliver, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:05 Impressive fountains at Place de la Navigation, Ouchy, Lausanne, 2.1 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:08 Lake Geneva as seen from Place du Vieux-Port, Lausanne, 2.3 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:08 The group soak up the scenic views of Lake Geneva at Place du Vieux-Port, Lausanne, 2.3 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:08 Lake Geneva as seen from Place du Vieux-Port, Lausanne, 2.3 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
10:36 Vineyards at Lutry extending as far as the eye can see, 6.1 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:49 A unique bird garden in front of the Nestle building at Quai Rousay, Vevey, 14.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
11:50 The First Ride of Bacchus sculpture at Quai Rousay, Vevey, 14.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
13:11 View from the second hairpin on Route 9 at Corsier-sur-Vevey, 20.3 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:11 View from the second hairpin on Route 9 at Corsier-sur-Vevey, looking back to the La Veveyse Valley, 20.3 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
13:12 Gavin and Luke negotiating the second hairpin at Corsier-sur-Vevey as we follow Route 9 into the mountains
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
15:24 Riding through the finest Swiss scenery at Les Mosses, La Sionge, 31.3 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
15:28 Gavin - and everyone else - have aching backs and necks as we take a short rest at Vaulruz, 32.3 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
15:39 Gavin at Chemin du Gresalley, Vaulruz, on a hot summer's day, 33.1 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
15:39 The group riding through more fabulous Swiss scenery at Chemin du Gresalley, Vaulruz
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
16:56 A detour after lunch at Bulle takes us past Lac de la Gruyère at Morlin, 39.4 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
16:59 The mountains above Lac de la Gruyère, from Morlon, Bulle, 39.4 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
17:18 Château de Gruyères, seen from the approach to Gruyères village, 42.6 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:18 Tao, Gavin and Oliver below Château de Gruyères
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
17:31 More fabulous Swiss mountain scenery from Saussivue, near Château de Gruyères, 44.2 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
18:10 A welcome water stop at the public fountain at Chapelle du Roc, Le Bu, 49.0 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
18:12 Never has fresh spring water been so welcome as it was here at Chapelle du Roc, Le Bu, 49.0 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
18:12 A welcome water stop at the public fountain at Chapelle du Roc, Le Bu, 49.0 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
18:25 Olly next to the Lessoc Fountain, at Lessoc, 50.0 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:16 Gavin, feeling 'knackered' like the rest of us, at Lac du Vernex, Rossinière, 55.0 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:17 Lac du Vernex, a public water reservoir at Rossinière, 55.0 miles into the ride
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
19:17 A train passes while we take photographs at Lac du Vernex, Rossinière
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:26 Swiss catlle complete with Swiss cowbells at Le Crêtet, Rossinière, 55.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:26 A fine photo of the group at Le Crêtet, Rossinière, 55.8 miles into the ride
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:38 Les Moulins, 57.1 miles into the ride and 3 miles from the hostel
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
19:39 Mountain views from Les Moulins, 57.1 miles into the ride and 3 miles from the hostel
(Oliver, Sony Cybershot)
Official video of today's ride - 2021 Full Remaster
(Michael, Sony DCR-TRV50E)
Original 2002 video edit, revamped in 2020, included only for quality comparison with latest edit
Approximate map of stage 1 of today's ride, with all video points shown
Approximate map of Stage 2 of today's ride, with all video points marked
Approximate map of the third and final stage of today's route, showing all video and photo points