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Monday 20 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 1 Home to Loch Lomond
Variable
2 miles (▲ 50m ▼ 35m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher (15, Swindon), Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby (15, Swindon), Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
This epic tour took us from Loch Lomond to Lochinver via Skye, Raasay and the Outer Hebrides. The most remarkable fact about the tour is that it was completely unremarkable. Nothing went wrong. The trains were on time, we didn't miss any ferries, nobody suffered any serious accidents or cycle breakdowns, and the weather was adequately dry and sunny for most of the tour. Everything went exactly according to plan. Which means, of course, that there isn't a lot to say in this report!

Getting a group of sixteen to Scotland with bikes is difficult enough, but it's even more complicated when participants come from different parts of the UK. The aim was to get everyone to join the 0716 Penzance to Glasgow train at their nearest station, loading bikes into the guard's van. The fourteen from Devon joined the train at Newton Abbot at 0956, Mark hopped on at Bristol Temple Meads, Stuart and James took a connecting train from Swindon and joined us at Cheltenham Spa and finally Paul Smith took a connecting train from Basingstoke to join us at Birmingham New Street at 1320. Everything went to plan and we arrived in Glasgow Central station on timeat 1745.

Ideally we would have liked to go all the way to our main starting point at Fort William, but it just wasn't possible to do that in a single day so we rode across Glasgow to Queen Street Station and took the local train to Balloch. From there it was just a short ride of around 2 miles to the spectacular Loch Lomond hostel, a huge mansion set on the shores of Loch Lomond. We had evening meals waiting for us when we arrived soon after 7.30.
Tuesday 21 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 2 Loch Lomond to Glen Nevis
19 miles (▲ 120m ▼ 80m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
To complete our journey to Fort William we needed to use another train service, but this time the trains, called Sprinters, had limited bike capacity and only ran a few times each day. Our solution to this problem was ingenius but, typically, complicated. We rode the 15 miles or so along the Western bank of Loch Lomond to the station at Arrochar and Tarbet, and here Michael had arranged a van and driver to be waiting for us at 1305, supplied by local firm Macrae and Dick of Fort William. We loaded all the bike into the van and sent Peter and Paul HW to ride with the driver to Fort William while the rest of us took the 1325 train, arriving at Fort William at 1546. Riders were reunited with bikes at the station and we then rode the few miles to the hostel at Glen Nevis.

Our first outdoor adventure was the ascent of Ben Nevis - on foot of course. As usual the clouds were low, and we were soon tramping through thick, damp fog. No-one was sure of the route, so we gave up after an hour, returning to the hostel cold, wet and hungry to find that the showers were cold - all part of the fun I suppose.

Fourteen pints of milk and three loaves of bread had been reserved for us at the hostel to help with our self-catering meals experience.
Wednesday 22 August 1990
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 3 Glen Nevis to Garramore
41 miles (▲ 480m ▼ 480m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
The clouds cleared overnight to leave a crystal clear morning, but of course we didn't have time to make another attempt at the mountain. We decided to make a weekend visit next summer when we could be sure of good weather!

Our ride today took us 42 miles along the scenic Road to the Isles, otherwise known as the A830 (although it's actually very quiet for an A-road). We stopped for lunch at Glenfinnan monument where a few paid the small fee to climb to the top where great views of Loch Shiel were enjoyed. We then continued along the increasingly hilly, twisty and scenic road to Garramore youth hostel, near Morar.

The evening was spent jumping off tall dunes of silver sand on a beach near Morar, the sun setting gloriously over the Western Isles. The setting was idyllic. This beach isn't at all like the ones we have in Devon. It is bright and clean, and we had virtually all of it to ourselves. The silvery sand rises steeply to grassy banks, and we spent much of the evening running towards the edge, jumping into the air and landing several seconds later in the soft sand below. When we couldn't jump any more we took to chasing after Mark Hedges, the Jack Rabbit who just wouldn't be caught.
Thursday 23 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 4 Garramore to Raasay
39 miles (▲ 500m ▼ 410m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
We had to start early today so we could ride the five miles to Mallaig in time to catch the 1045 ferry to Armadale, on the Isle of Skye. We then rode around the island to Broadford where we were able to buy provisions for the evening and then continued to Sconser where we took the 1715 ferry to the Isle of Raasay. From here it was just a few miles' ride to the hostel. We had ridden around 40 miles today in total.

At Raasay hostel we discovered that Martin Hills liked his home comforts. The hostel is very simple, and it all became too much for Martin when the heavy rain began. He was cold and miserable and could find nothing nice to say about the poor little hostel. Admittedly the warden seemed to prefer the company of some older hostellers, treating our group rather coldly at times. For example, the tiny common room was the only warm place for sitting and chatting, but it was already full with the other hostellers. We therefore retired to our dormitory to make the best of the situation, and were told not to use the dormitory as a common room and not to keep walking in and out with wet feet!
Friday 24 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 5 Raasay to Lochmaddy
41 miles (▲ 715m ▼ 780m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
The next morning was delightful, the sun shining on the blue waters which separated Skye and Raasay. After taking the 0915 ferry back across the water our route took us along the eastern flank of Skye. We were rewarded with the amazing sight of clouds pouring over the edge of cauldron-shaped mountain ridges, and bubbling up around the rock pinnacle known as the Old Man of Storr. It was a sight we will never forget.

We continued around the island to Uig where we caught the 1820 ferry to the Outer Hebridean island of Lochmaddy. It was 2055 when we arrived, but fortunately the hostel was not far from the ferry terminal. Total mileage today was around 43 miles.
Saturday 25 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 6 Lochmaddy to Stockinish
35 miles (▲ 265m ▼ 265m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
On Saturday morning we rode the few miles to Newtonferry where we met the ferryman Mr McAskell at 11am. We had to load our bikes onto a rather small boat in order to travel from the isle of North Uist to the isle of Harris. Not all the bikes would fit in the cabin below, so a few, including Mark Burnard's Moulton (often called the Super Shopper because of its tiny little wheels) had to be strapped on top. It wasn't too badly affected by the salt water, however.

The route took us past the island of Berneray and on to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris where we had lunch in the café and bought some provisions. We then headed across the narrow, twisty, unfenced roads of Harris witnessing scenery that looked almost alien in nature. Total cycling distance today was around 20 miles.

The hostel that evening was at Stockinish, a remote and peaceful hamlet near the island's coast. When meals had been prepared we all wandered down to the sea to explore. Martin Luke, of course, had to explore further than everyone else: he stripped off most of his clothes and swam through the icy waters to an island several hundred metres out. To his credit he got back again, and still didn't appear too cold as he picked his way across the rocks and grassy verges towards the hostel.
Sunday 26 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 7 Stockinish to Stornoway
43 miles (▲ 615m ▼ 610m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
Our ride today took us northwards onto the Isle of Lewis, although there was no obvious point that separated the two islands. After around 43 miles of rather barren landscape we finally reached Stornoway near the north of the island.

There is no youth hostel in Stornoway so Michael had arranged for us all to stay in bed and breakfasts. The Tower and Park guest houses in James Street took six and three respectively and Mrs Skinner in Francis Street took the remaining seven. Park didn't do meals though, so those in Park came to Mrs Skinner for their evening snacks, which turned out to be pretty good!
Monday 27 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 8 Stornoway to Ullapool
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
The ferry back to the mainland didn't leave until 1330 so we had the whole morning to look around Stornoway and buy gifts and food.

When the ferry came it was huge, taking a very large number of cars in addition to cyclists and foot passengers. The crossing at three and a half hours was also the longest we had yet experienced on the tour, so some took the precaution of taking sea-sickness tablets during the morning.

When we finally arrived at Ullapool at 5pm the hostel was less than a mile from the ferry terminal, overlooking the Loch. It was a fine, modern hostel located in what was clearly a popular tourist destination, so we had a very enjoyable stay.
Tuesday 28 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 9 Ullapool to Achmelvich
34 miles (▲ 785m ▼ 785m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
On Tuesday we set off early for the long ride north. The road signs here reflected the limited number of roads and road users in the area, one sign saying simply "The North". We followed that road as far as Drumrunie and then forked left onto a minor road that took us past a very distinctive mountain called Stac Pollaidh. Many of us couldn't resist the challenge of climbing to the top, which introduced a delay of an hour or two.

Continuing along the road we then forked right onto a road known locally as "The Mad Little Road to Wester Ross" - mad because it twists and turns all the way to Lochinver. From there it was just a short ride the hostel making a total of around 35 cycling miles.

It was Tuesday night when we experienced one of the finest moments of the tour. The hostel at Achmelvich, near Lochinver, is located near another silver sand beach. Once again we had a glorious sunset, but this setting was simply out of this world. It really isn't possible to convey the beauty and solitude of this place - you will just have to go there with us in 1992!
Wednesday 29 August 1990
Tour: Scottish Highlands and Islands
Day 10 Achmelvich to Carbisdale Castle
48 miles (▲ 525m ▼ 485m)
16 Participants: Neil Ault, Matthew Bentley, Mark Burnard, Julian Duquemin, James Fletcher, Matthew Hamlyn-White, Paul Hamlyn-White, Mark Hedges, Martin Hills, Michael Jones, Stuart Lamonby, Martin Luke, Martin Rushworth, Peter Rushworth, Paul Smith, Martyn Williams
Today's ride was almost the longest of the tour at 49 miles, crossing from the west coast to the East coast. Whilst there was certainly a bit of uphill at the start there was also a huge amount of downhill during the second half of the ride.

Wednesday night's hostel was certainly the most spectacular of the tour. Carbisdale Castle was given to the SYHA, and they have restored it as well as their limited funds will allow. We were given a lengthy guided tour of the hostel by the warden, complete with detailed descriptions of each of the many ghosts that regularly haunt the castle. Some members didn't feel too comfortable when the light was turned off that night!
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